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--- sauces [2017/04/13 20:12]
Leslie Cambias [Bearnaise Sauce]
+++ sauces [2020/08/02 19:57] (current)
Jim [Red Pesto by Jim Cambias]
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 ====Basic Brown Sauce====
-This great French basic sauce is simply a brown roux thinned out with a bouillion or brown stock.  It also can be elaborated,  as in Sauce Espagnole,  which is  brown sauce with mirepoix,  tomato puree and bouquet garni,  cooked and put through a fine sieve, or pureed in a processor and fine-sieved.   It will be found in the kitchen of every classic French restaurant.  There are endless variations on these sauces.
+This great French basic sauce is simply a brown roux thinned out with a bouillion or brown stock.  It also can be elaborated,  as in Sauce Espagnole,  which is  brown sauce with mirepoix,  tomato puree and bouquet garni,  cooked and put through a fine sieve, or pureed in a processor and fine-sieved.   It will be found in the kitchen of every classic French restaurant, where meat glaze is usually added for rich flavor.  There are endless variations on these sauces.
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      *1 tbsp.  Worcestershire sauce
-Cook the flour in the bacon fat to make a light brown roux.  Add the onion and celery. peppers, scallions, bay and thyme.  Cook on a low fire. Add the garlic, tomatoes and sauce,  salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about 1/2 hour on a very low fire, then add the parsley, Tabasco.  Let it rest off the fire for at least 2 hours before rewarming and serving.
+Cook the flour in the bacon fat to make a light brown roux.  Add the onion and celery. peppers, scallions, bay and thyme.  Cook on a low fire. Add the garlic, tomatoes and sauce,  salt and pepper to taste. Simmer for about 1/2 hour on a very low fire, then add the parsley, Tabasco and Worcestershire.  Let it rest off the fire for at least 2 hours before rewarming and serving.
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-It is, strictly speaking,  not really a sauce but more of an ingredient.  It is a kind of  concentrated mushroom flavor,  and is added to sauces or used for garnish or stuffing.  (see  the recipe for [[Seafood#Filet of Fish, Rolled and Baked]] for an example).  It can be made with mushrooms that are just about to spoil,  and it can be done with any variety.
+It is, strictly speaking,  not really a sauce but more of an ingredient.  It is a kind of  concentrated mushroom flavor,  and is added to sauces or used for garnish or stuffing.  (see  the recipe for [[Seafood#Filet of Fish, Rolled and Baked]] for an example).  It can be made with mushrooms that are just about to spoil,  and with any variety. The processor can be used for mincing- almost a puree.
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-Continue cooking,  uncovered,  for 3 hours - stirring now and then and adding a little water if it seems in danger of scorching.  At the end of cooking it should be almost dry,  just solids and oils.   There should be about 2 generous cups,  enough for 1 1/2 lbs. pasta,  6 lavish servings.
+Continue cooking,  uncovered,  for 3 hours - stirring now and then and adding a little water if it seems in danger of scorching. Toward the end of cooking, you might want to add about 1 and 1/2 tablespoons of tomato paste - make a space and cook the pasta to caramelize it.  At the end of cooking it should be almost dry,  just solids and oils.   There should be about 2 generous cups,  enough for 1 1/2 lbs. pasta,  6 lavish servings.
-It is a rich sauce and only a couple tablespoons of it per serving are needed.  If needed, thin it out with a very little hot pasta water to serve.
+It is a rich sauce and only a couple of tablespoons of it per serving are needed.  If needed, thin it out with a very little hot pasta water.
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 See under [[Seafood#Remoulade Sauce]] in Seafood.
+----
+====Red Pesto by Jim Cambias====
+This recipe is from //Bon Appetit// magazine, but of course I had to tinker with it a little bit. It is absolutely delicious, loaded with //umami// from the anchovies and tomatoes. In my house I can't prepare it in advance or save leftovers because people will just eat the sauce with a spoon when my back is turned. So I guess you have to make it right before dinner.
+For a supper in honor of Italian Tricolor Day (January 7), serve three kinds of pasta, one with red pesto, one with green pesto, and one with butter and cheese.
+//Ingredients//
+  *Anchovies, 1 small can (Original recipe calls for just 6 anchovies, but why not use them all?)
+  *2 Fresno red chili peppers, split and seeded
+  *Garlic, 4 cloves, smashed
+  *Lemon Juice, 3 tablespoons (or the juice of half a lemon)
+  *Olive Oil, 3/4 cup (//Bon Appetit// specifies extra-virgin olive oil, but with all the garlic and anchovies I think any flavor subtleties will be lost, so you may as well use the cheap stuff.)
+  *Parmesan Cheese, grated, 3 ounces or 1/2 cup
+  *Pecans, 1/2 cup (Original recipe calls for walnuts.)
+  *Salt, 1/2 teaspoon or to taste
+  *Sun-Dried Tomatoes, 1/4 cup (//Bon Appetit// uses 3 tablespoons of double-concentrated tomato paste.)
+//Directions//
+Pour the olive oil into a saucepan, then sauté the anchovies, garlic, and nuts until the garlic begins to turn golden. Chop the tomatoes and add, cook a little longer but do not let the garlic get scorched.
+Put all the contents of the pan, including the oil, into a blender or food processor. Add the remaining ingredients (chiles, lemon, cheese, and salt) and puree until it forms a thick paste.
+Serve with spaghetti or fettucini, mixing the sauce thoroughly with the pasta. Also works well on pizza.
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